MX-5 Miata Forum - First Car (2024)

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MX-5 Miata Forum(https://forum.miata.net/vb/index.php)

- NA (1990-1997) General Discussion(https://forum.miata.net/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=14)

- - First Car - 1990 Mazda Miata, what do I do now?(https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=540456)


LordoftheGuitars7th May 2014 14:41

First Car - 1990 Mazda Miata, what do I do now?

Hey everybody!
So after meeting and befriending several gear-heads during my freshman year in college, I was coerced into buying a cheap project Miata for my first car (drove a parent's 2001 Altima before), so I scoured the web for ads and found and purchased a 1990 MX-5 with 161k, soft top, everything stock for $2100.
The car has several issues that need to be addressed, but for the price, I'm very pleased with the car. The rear right quarter panel has been repainted a darker red than the rest of the car (it is eye candy other than that) and it is leaking oil near the back of the block, close to the valve cover, if my terminology is correct. It didn't pass emissions, and unfortunately it is 1 year too young to qualify as an antique, and I'm pretty sure there is an exhaust leak. I plan on getting it checked out this weekend to tune and inspect the engine so I can get the plates, but my question is, where should I put money into improving the car if parts (like the exhaust) need replacing?

Thanks, and sorry for my ignorance on the subject in advance, I've never had the time until now to get into cars, but I'm learning!


suspiciousmind7th May 2014 15:26

Welcome aboard ....
For me, tires are at the top of the list but yours may have more pressing issues.

Here's a good starting place (do what you can)...... http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...ght=baselining

..... and most of all.....have fun!


wyomiata657th May 2014 15:27

Your oil leak is probably coming from the seal at the CAS (crank angle sensor) located at the rear of the passenger side valve cover, relatively easy fix (it's just an O-ring). Parts are fairly cheap for these cars. If it is an exhaust leak depends on where at? After market exhaust systems are cheaper than stock. I think you will enjoy your new ride!!


aaron_roch7th May 2014 15:38

If the budget is really tight, used stock exhausts are usually free, one from any 90-93 will be identical.

Normally it would be pretty dumb to waste time putting a 22 year old
exhaust on a car, but lots of folks take off perfectly good exhausts when upgrading, and it's entirely possible you'd get a few years out of a used one- or even a junkyard one.

Note you won't get much of a performance increase from an aftermarket exhaust. Like really close to zero.

Tires and a good alignment, on the other hand can yield eye-popping results.


LordoftheGuitars8th May 2014 08:59

Thanks! Yeah I think tires and an aftermarket exhaust are at the top of my list. I definitely need to replace the stock rims, but in the meantime, is it ok to Plasti-Dip the stock rims? I was thinking black and the covers red.


mattsedona8th May 2014 10:02

Plugs/wires (NGK blue wires and NGK copper plugs) may solve your smog issue, make sure it is fully warmed up before the test. If you need a new cat, aftermarket is the way to go, much cheaper that OEM. The leaking cas O-ring may drip oil on the heater hoses, so give them a good squeeze to make sure they aren't ready to burst, which can overheat the engine in short order, if you have the time and inclination, replacing all 9 heating and cooling hoses, and possibly even the radiator is good insurance.
Catalytic info here: http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=534256


Gene-M8th May 2014 10:18

Welcome to the forum "Lord!" (Couldn't resist :D)

:welcome:

Yeah definitely get the smog sorted out, then replace that CAS O-ring. Be sure to check for oil damage to the heater hoses beneath it. This is a common cause for heater hose failure, which can easily lead to overheating and engine failure (blown head gasket, or worse).

Once these issues are out of the way, I agree that good grippy tires should be a top priority.

The forum's Garage section and Wiki section have good tutorials on all these procedures, so read up and don't go in there blind.;)


LordoftheGuitars8th May 2014 16:20

5 Attachment(s)

Here's some pics for reference. Also included is what looks to be a switch for possibly some lights near the pedals??? IDK what it is but it doesn't look stock.


JesseTheNoob8th May 2014 16:43

Definately looks like a leak from the CAS O-Ring, get er done! Cheap and easy! It is kinda a pain to get your hands into that small space though so just be patient.


gtxhawaii8th May 2014 17:09

Caution on new wheels. I see more dumb choices that ride worse and degrade handling than improvements over stock Daisy rims. 22 lb 17" wagon wheels would lead the list.
Good-Win-Racing has the most competitive price and weight wheels I'm aware of presently, 10lb 15x7, 11lb 15x8.
Don't be in a hurry to do anything but required maintenance. Live with the car for awhile and learn what you love, don't bugger that up with 'mods'! And what you want different, with the research so you get it right the first time.
A quality performance wheel alignment is normally required if you don't find documentation showing the PO knew it's benefits and had one done.
If the car has black shocks, you will be amazed by a quality new suspension. Again, it's extremely easy to spend big on bad products. Just buying brands people from other platforms recommend will usually do it. KYB Excells are by far the value leader at <$250 shipped from Ebay, but aren't suitable for lowering any, or stiffer springs. Fine new stock shock equivalents with stock service life, starting to wear by 50K miles. You probably don't want to know what the top end of Miata shocks cost, it's more than twice what you paid for your car.


toofun8th May 2014 17:59

Welcome and that looks like a good but for 2100


Pwain8th May 2014 19:51

Looks like you got a good deal.

Focus on "baselining" the car. Your car visually looks good, but at 25 years of age and the leaky CAS o-ring, you likely have a good bit of work to do.

I would caution you in taking it to a mechanic, unless you have zero tools/space/time. This is probably one of the best documented vehicles to learn to work on.

What makes you think you have an exhaust leak? The OE system is surprisingly robust.


LordoftheGuitars9th May 2014 01:07

When I took the car to see if it would pass emissions, it had passed in January (idk where they took it lol) but now it failed by a large margin. The clerk at the emissions lot advised me that because smoke seemed to be coming from the engine bay, there could be an exhaust leak ( I just thought it was the oil burning)


just me9th May 2014 07:08

Welcome to the forum LotG, The toggle switch is most likely a kill or alarm switch. Many new, NA miatas got alarms installed at the dealership, just another example of dealers prying extra money from buyers.
I got sucked in when I bought my first new Chevy in the 60's, the dealers were adding an option of custom see-through plastic seat covers made by Fingerhut, it was the rage then.
Enjoy your new ride.
B.B.


jmsj5789th May 2014 08:12

Right now, get your car past the inspections and fix that CAS oil leak. Those two items, alone, will be enough, up front.

As for the wheels, you can plasti-dip them; but, my son just got through painting his. He used black wheel paint that came out really nice for his '95 NA. As was said, you can mess up on wheel choices, fairly easily. Some get carried away with their choices and wonder why their cars don't perform, later.

As was suggested, drive your car, for a while, to get used to it before you start doing a lot of mods, etc., to it. You might decide you don't want a project car, after all. If you really like the car, then make a list of things that need your attention and start working through them. Don't be surprised if you spend more on the car than you paid for it, though. That happens quite often, around here. :)


CrvLvrs9th May 2014 08:26

I 2nd all that's been said and reiterate; Address that CAS seal asap and thoroughly inspect that hose that has had hot oil dripping on it for what appears to be quite some time.

Make it run, make it safe, get to know it.... experience Jinba Ittai!

Welcome to the fun!


Mad Swede9th May 2014 08:36

On a '90, the CAS is on the opposite side as the heater hoses, so I don't think that a leak would impact the heater hoses. But it is messy. Beware, if you can't get the CAS back in, then pull the valve cover and put a new gasket in. I have not tried an early NA CAS, so perhaps it is easier than the 1.8L version.


CrvLvrs9th May 2014 08:39

"close enough".


Pwain9th May 2014 09:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mad Swede(Post 6920878)

I have not tried an early NA CAS, so perhaps it is easier than the 1.8L version.

No, it's still a pain. I think the only frustration is the fact it looks so simple, but is so tight to get back on.

If the CAS has been leaking a good bit, then likely you need to look at the "water outlet cap" as oil has likely leaked down and degraded this 25yo rubber plug.


LordoftheGuitars12th May 2014 20:38

Alrighty, I just got the car back from the shop, and there was a carb issue and it got cleared up pretty quickly and now runs great! I still have several fixes around the vehicle, so im gonna start with the most frustrating thing so far; interior lights (lol)

I bought two LED bulbs that I checked out and they fit fine, however they did not turn on at all. After taking a look at the fuse box (was a PITA to get to) I found that somebody had placed a 15 in the slot for ROOM1 (interior lights) so I replaced it with a 10a fuse, that the diagram recommended. still no use. I then tried a different 15 fuse, but to no avail. does anybody know whats going on here?


dgoggans797213th May 2014 00:17

hey mr. guitar.....i'm on my 2nd miata... the 1st was a 10th anniv i got at auction.. kept it 3 yrs.. drove 50k mostly out of town... sold it for twice what i paid ... currently, about a year ago.. i picked up a $2700 1995 classic red like yours.... my suggestion would be that you get to know Tom at Partsgroup.com... tom builds race cars from old miatas and parts out everything else.. he is a wealth of info and parts and because you're in Georgia, he's not that far... i drive from birmingham up i65 to Hartselle, al where he is located... i recently had a pulley go out on my powersteering pump.. everybody in town wanted over $100 for it and had to order it... i hopped in the car and got one from tom for $25... while i was there, i picked up some trunk carpet for $23... you can't beat him... if you can't drive over from GA, he'll ship it to you... ..... as for the car.. i knew nothing when i started 5 yrs ago.... go slow... replace the radiator if it has never been replaced..you can get one off ebay for about $60....thermostat.. hoses if needed... then do the plugs, plug wires...etc...make it run good...a top can be had off ebay too, for about $150... auto tops directed can get you new vinyl (nice) seat covering for about $160 (real covers with hogrings).... you can figure out a lot by reading the garage section of this forum.... don't be afraid to do it yourself... i started at $ 2700.. i've done most everything i need to do and i've only spent $1300 on top of that.and $325 of that was tires.... $4000 total... i drive it everywhere.... good luck ...you're gonna love this car!!!


WarpDriv13th May 2014 00:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by LordoftheGuitars(Post 6926405)

Alrighty, I just got the car back from the shop, and there was a carb issue and it got cleared up pretty quickly and now runs great! I still have several fixes around the vehicle, so im gonna start with the most frustrating thing so far; interior lights (lol)

I bought two LED bulbs that I checked out and they fit fine, however they did not turn on at all. After taking a look at the fuse box (was a PITA to get to) I found that somebody had placed a 15 in the slot for ROOM1 (interior lights) so I replaced it with a 10a fuse, that the diagram recommended. still no use. I then tried a different 15 fuse, but to no avail. does anybody know whats going on here?

LED bulbs are polarity specific. They won't illuminate if installed backwards. If you haven't already, remove the LED bulb and turn it end for end... opposite of how you installed them previously, and try that.


dgoggans797213th May 2014 00:30

oh yea...keep those old wheels.... i just did mine in plastidip gunmetal gray.... looks way cool.......took only about 3 cans $20... get it at Lowe's or advanced auto or online...included are a pics of my new top... new seats ..newly painted stock wheels... and my spare relocation as shown in the garage section of the forum.....attached are a few pics ,,, enjoy


LordoftheGuitars13th May 2014 00:36

@dgoggans7972 damn bro, that car is sick! yeah I wanna dip the stock ones black as well, im thinking about doing away with the covers and painting the lug nuts red


LordoftheGuitars13th May 2014 00:40

@warp thanks yeah I wasn't sure but I did test them out before I put them in (used my alligator clip testing chords from Circuits I XD) but yeah, idk they wont turn on. The guy at autozone told me to try a 20A fuse, which is odd but tomorrow ill give it a go

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